Pago Pago American Samoa

After 5 incredible days at sea we were delighted to awaken in our next port of call - Pago Pago, American Samoa. While they use US currency, the island is completely different than mainland USA, but has one of the deepest natural harbours in the world, so our cruise ship was able to sail right in to the port for docking.  The USA made great use of this Pacific Island during WWII.

We set off in search of a bus to take us over this hill to the National Park for a hike through the forest and then planned on returning for a short beach visit before re-boarding the ship by 3:30pm.

We had tried to book this trip onboard the ship, but it was already full.  There was a park ranger at the visitor's centre though and he assured us that we could get there in about one hour by local bus that went by every half an hour or so, and that there was a "family friendly" 45 minute hike that we would enjoy.

There were no "posted" bus stops and no set schedule, but we were told that two buses (one brown and one white) drove back and forth during the day to take visitors to and from the National Park.  We walked down the main street a couple of blocks to the bus terminal (right next to a McDonald's of all things!).  Again, the only signs next to the benches were EAST or WEST.  We asked some locals and they all agreed that we the bus we wanted was heading east. It was 9:45am and we figured that even if we had just missed one, it wouldn't be too long before the next.  


So, we waited.

And waited.

And waited.

I sent Dave to find something for the kids to eat while we waited.  He found Doritos in the shop next to us.

A local man said "that's the bus you want" as a bus full of people drove straight past the terminal without stopping.

We checked with the local lady who was also heading to the same area.

We checked with some college girls who were transferring at the bus terminal.

Everyone shrugged and said we were waiting in the right spot.

There were another dozen people from our cruise ship waiting with us.

It was hot.  I was sweating.  We reapplied sunscreen.

The boys licked their orange Doritos-covered fingers.  We drank some water. 

We waited.  The bus didn't come.  Lots of other buses came.  They had no windows.  They had no doors. 

11:30am came and I called it quits.

It wasn't reasonable to wait any longer, given the thought that we may end up stuck at the park waiting again for the bus and not return in time to board our ship!    It was not the day for a "3 hour tour" mishap. For those unfamiliar with cruise ships, the only time they wait for a passenger who is running late is when the passenger is on a tour organized by the ship.  Otherwise you'd better hope you took your credit card or some cash ashore with you...

We wandered into the shade of the local market.  A lovely Samoan grandma doted on the boys and gave them each a banana to munch and Daddy bought a young coconut and she stuck a straw in it for us to drink the coconut juice out of.  Bananas fresh from the plantation taste a whole lot different to those in the store in Canada, YUM!

We went back aboard the ship, had lunch and then headed back on shore in search of a beach.  We found a small one near a grassy park across the street from a high school.   They had an open air gymnasium, with just a roof in case of rain - very cool!

In the end, we relaxed, enjoying the heat and ocean and the beauty of the green hills and simple coastline.  We used the public washrooms at the beach.  There were no doors.  You simply entered the small building and turned a couple of corners and there were 3 toilets with little walls dividing them.  But no stall doors.  I know!  Some of you are thinking - WOW you've lived a sheltered life!  And some of you are thinking - been there, done that!  And of course there was no soap either, that's why we travel with hand sanitizer (duh!).  

So, I captured this photo below as the epitome of American Samoa.  This is the clock tower that is across the street from the port.  Can you spot the problem???  It's definitely a relaxed place!

Plus, if I was really clever, I'd have been able to show that you the 3rd side of the tower was also sporting a different time . . . . and in case you're wondering:  NONE of them were right.  They were all broken.  So, the island is a stunningly beautiful natural setting, the harbour was spectacular to sail out of, but when the guide mentions it is a 3rd world nation, you get the picture and relax about the buses.  By the way, I heard later on from another traveler waiting with us at the bus stop, that the local lady phoned the bus driver by cellphone and discovered that he wouldn't be picking up at the terminal until at least 12:30pm - he was full of tourists from the cruise ship!

Really, when 2000 people descend on an island with little infrastructure, it's best to leave your neat and tidy scheduled plans / expectations aside.  Lesson learned.  It would get easier from here.   

 Apparently, our dinner table mates saw a couple of dolphins jumping as we left Pago Pago . . . we missed them.  I was keeping my eyes on X & J as Dave was snapping photos from the top deck.